After a cold night, the day began early with a loud call to prayer at 5 am, jolting us awake and reminding us we were in a very different place.
By 7 am, we sat down to a hearty breakfast of porridge, pancakes with jam, coffee, and water. The meal gave us much-needed energy for the long day ahead.
We met our guide, Abdoul, along with the mule that would carry our main gear to base camp. Renting crampons for the summit climb added to the sense of both excitement and preparation for the challenges ahead. By 9 am, we set off.
The trek began with a gentle climb through the village, where we were struck by the simplicity of life. Many homes lacked windows or doors, yet the locals radiated warmth and contentment. There was something humbling about their resilience and resourcefulness, a sharp contrast to the comforts we often take for granted.
Crossing a dried riverbed (wadi), we saw locals gathering aggregate to build homes, simple but essential shelters that made us reflect on how vital a secure place to live is for everyone. As the terrain became steeper, we moved onto the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, navigating loose rocks and boulders. The camaraderie among our group and the breathtaking views made the climb feel less like a challenge and more like a privilege.
We passed a checkpoint, a stark reminder of a tragic incident involving two trekkers years ago. While the region is now much safer, the checkpoint served as a moment to reflect on life’s fragility and the importance of secure spaces where people can feel safe. It also made me appreciate the careful planning that went into ensuring our safety on this journey.
As we climbed, we paused occasionally to hydrate and adjust our layers due to the changes in altitude and the physical exertion. The shifting conditions demanded constant attention, but the views were worth every effort. At one rest stop, we treated ourselves to freshly squeezed orange juice for just a refreshing and unexpected delight in such a remote location.
Higher up, we passed trekkers descending from the summit. At the time, I thought they seemed quite grumpy, but I was reminded of their weary expressions on our return journey the following day when I felt utterly exhausted and following in their footsteps. Their exhaustion was a clear sign of the challenge ahead and what we could expect to face ourselves—I just didn’t realise it yet.
Reaching the snow line, the terrain became icy and treacherous, demanding extra care with every step. Surprisingly, it wasn’t cold despite being surrounded by ice and snow. The combination of the shining sun and the effort of climbing kept us warm, even in such a harsh environment. Still, the contrast between the glistening beauty of the snow and the constant need for caution was a sobering reminder of the mountain’s unforgiving nature. At one point, Henry became unusually quiet, and we could all tell he was struggling. Concerned, we pressed him to find out what was wrong. After some hesitation, he finally confessed, “I just really need a poo!” I’m not sure how everyone else felt, but I was relieved Henry was okay, though I also couldn’t help laughing out loud.
We reached base camp in the late afternoon under clear skies. The camp comprised at least two, possibly more, buildings. From the outside, they appeared quite small, but once inside, we found large, three-storey structures that had clearly been expanded over time.
Despite their size, the buildings were unheated when we arrived, and the cold was immediately noticeable. Sitting down for a very late lunch in the freezing dining area was a stark contrast to the warmth of the sun during our climb.
The warmth from earlier felt like a distant memory as the chill seeped into every corner of the room. As the sun dipped lower, fires were lit in three of the rooms, allowing us to close doors and finally get some heat going. That faint warmth made us drowsy, but there was still plenty to do before settling in.
We pushed on to arrange our kit for the 5 am start the following morning. Once everything was squared away and our bunks were made up with sleeping bags, we headed back down to have dinner, a simple but much needed meal before retreating to our dorms for bed. Wooden bunks, thin cushions, and a damp, mouldy ceiling may not have been ideal, but they served their purpose. Even in these sparse conditions, we were acutely aware of how lucky we were to have shelter at all.
Dinner was a modest bowl of spaghetti with carrots and bread simple, but enough to fuel us for the early start. Lights out was set for 9.30 pm, but sleep was elusive. The dormitory buzzed with the sounds of snoring, whispering, and the occasional shuffle as everyone tried to settle in. The cold, damp air made the thin sleeping bags feel insufficient against the chill. Every movement seemed to echo, adding to the restless atmosphere.
During the night, I could hear someone sobbing and talking to themselves. It was unsettling, but in the stillness of the dorm, it was impossible to ignore. At breakfast the next morning, we learned the reason behind it, which added a poignant layer to the already raw and humbling experience. It was a reminder that the challenges we faced on the mountain extended far beyond the physical.
With only a few hours of restless sleep, we were excited but a bit apprehensive. Despite the nerves, I couldn’t wait to get up and start the climb to the summit. The anticipation was a strange mix of fear and exhilaration a cocktail that seemed fitting for what lay ahead.
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